Los Barrios Family Cookbook

Los Barrios Family Cookbook.

Tex-Mex Recipes From the Heart of San Antonio.

Diana Barrios Trevino.

To my father, the late Jose C. Barrios, and my mother, Viola B. Barrios A lifetime of love is what you have given me.

Eternal thanks is what I return.

FORWORD

As the food correspondent for ABC's Good Morning America, Good Morning America, I'm always looking for new tastes and cuisines in different regions of the country, especially those that involve local culture. We went in search of big Tex-Mex cooking, which San Antonio is known for. I chose Los Barrios from the many Tex-Mex restaurants in the city because I fell in love with Diana Barrios Trevino and the entire Barrios family. They've survived a rocky start and difficult times, all the while remaining true to their family business and the home-style Tex-Mex food they serve. The dishes they have created contain amazing combinations and flavors that many people don't get to experience. I wanted the rest of the country to sample what I was tasting. I wanted people to realize that true Tex-Mex cooking isn't just fajitas and burritos. I'm always looking for new tastes and cuisines in different regions of the country, especially those that involve local culture. We went in search of big Tex-Mex cooking, which San Antonio is known for. I chose Los Barrios from the many Tex-Mex restaurants in the city because I fell in love with Diana Barrios Trevino and the entire Barrios family. They've survived a rocky start and difficult times, all the while remaining true to their family business and the home-style Tex-Mex food they serve. The dishes they have created contain amazing combinations and flavors that many people don't get to experience. I wanted the rest of the country to sample what I was tasting. I wanted people to realize that true Tex-Mex cooking isn't just fajitas and burritos.We did the segment from the Arneson River Theater on the Riverwalk. We were surrounded by mariachis and thousands of San Antonio fans. Diana brought platters and platters of enchiladas and tamales, and prepared a traditional Mexican dish that her mother makes, Pollo con Calabacita, a hearty home-style chicken dish with tatuma squash and oregano. After only a few minutes, my mouth began to water from the awesome aromas coming from the pot!Later that day, I went by Los Barrios with my then girlfriend-now wife-Alden. What began as a late-afternoon lunch turned into a true feast. I managed to taste almost everything on the menu, which is no easy feat! The whole Barrios clan joined us at the table to help polish off the great food. The more food they brought, the more people showed up-our table just kept growing and growing. I felt right at home, because Los Barrios is all about family, and I now felt like a member of Diana's welcoming family.Now, with the Los Barrios Family Cookbook, Los Barrios Family Cookbook, I am excited to know that people across the country can easily prepare and taste all of the delicious dishes I experienced on my visit. Whether you like your food hot, medium, or mild-and these recipes have it all-you'll love the food in this book. So go ahead, kick it up a notch San Antonio style! I am excited to know that people across the country can easily prepare and taste all of the delicious dishes I experienced on my visit. Whether you like your food hot, medium, or mild-and these recipes have it all-you'll love the food in this book. So go ahead, kick it up a notch San Antonio style!EMERIL LAGa.s.sE

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

When Random House first approached Los Barrios in June of 1999 about doing a cookbook, my first reaction was one of excitement. But as I started to think about it, I began to get nervous. We weren't writers; we made enchiladas for a living. Yet throughout the entire process, we were blessed to work with a woman who had tremendous faith in us: Pamela Cannon, our editor, held my hand from beginning to end. During my pregnancy (and with the emotional roller coaster that came with it), through my broken ankle (she said it was a blessing because it would force me to sit still long enough to write this book), and all the way through our busy summers at the restaurant, Pamela was there. She gave me the confidence I needed to do this project and created a very special bond between us that will always be there. Thank you, Pamela, for your constant encouragement and for being such a great friend.My father died in 1975, and it was a bad year for our family. The bright spot in that otherwise dark time was the arrival of Maria Marquez, who came to work with my mother. Maria has been with us through thick and thin, and is still very active on a day-to-day basis at Los Barrios. Her brother, Jose Luz Villegas, known as Lucio, has also been instrumental in our organization. I thank them both for their many years of support and loyalty. Mil gracias por todo. Mil gracias por todo.Many thanks to everyone in my family for being so supportive. I thank my sister, Theresa, for putting up with my late-night phone calls to get her opinion on wording for a recipe and for letting me interrupt her even if she was with a patient. I thank my brother, Louie, for his great belief in me and in this project, and also for his collaboration in writing the story of our family. I would also like to thank my husband, Roland, and my sons, Jordan, Evan, and Diego. "Yes, boys, Mommy is done and we can play now."And to my beautiful mother, Viola, thank you for teaching me everything you have taught me. If I can be a fraction of the woman you are, I will have succeeded.

INTRODUCTION

In 1979, when my mother, Viola B. Barrios, invested $3,000 in an old garage to open her new restaurant, Los Barrios, she never imagined that it would someday be named one of the "100 Best New Restaurants in America" by Esquire Esquire magazine. Nor could she have pictured it eventually growing into a 280-seat restaurant packed with customers each and every day. magazine. Nor could she have pictured it eventually growing into a 280-seat restaurant packed with customers each and every day.It seems that some things are special right from the very start. While $3,000 registers very little financially, Mama Viola's ambition and perseverance rank among the greatest ever.Los Barrios did not begin as a dream but rather as a last hope. After the death of my father, debts started piling up and my mother was forced to take financial matters into her own hands. With two failed business ventures behind her, she turned to what she knew best. My mother had always been an incredible cook, keeping our tummies filled with the wonderful dishes that had been handed down to her through the generations. This wonderful home cooking is the true essence of Los Barrios.Our beginnings were humble. We started in a $500-a-month garage that had previously been home to an outboard motor repair shop. This was all that we could afford at the time. There was no parking lot and there were no windows. The chairs and tables didn't match. A small metal front door serviced everyone from the fifty customers per day to the two employees, as well as the purveyors. At night, we just closed the garage door to lock up.Mama Viola set high standards for her cuisine, knowing that when your ambience is humble, the food had better be good good! And that's exactly what it was. My brother Louie's role was to run the "dining room," along with the help of one waiter, Juan. I was a junior in high school at the time and would visit during lunch whenever my girlfriends and I could sneak away from school.Soon enough, everyone began to take notice of the little garage restaurant. First it was the downtown businesspeople, then the local food critics. One article referred to Francisco D. Rodriguez, who was my mother's original partner, affectionately known as Paco, as "the Muhammad Ali of the restaurant industry" because of his quick wit. Before you knew it, the lines were out the door. With the lines also came challenges. The long hours in the restaurant business never allowed us much opportunity to revel in our success. The more customers we had, the more problems arose, and we needed to handle them.Everyone helped out where they could, but it was Mama Viola who shouldered most of the burden. Not speaking English fluently did not seem to affect her progress. Of course, great cooking carries with it a lot of forgiveness.The joys of the restaurant were plentiful, though. The relationships that were established, the memories that were created during times of great struggle, and the defining moments that made us who we were more than outweighed our troubles. I remember Paco dancing all by himself at the end of our first $500 day of sales. His solo salsa dance expressed joy, exhaustion, and relief. The relief carried with it a small sliver of the success that was to come. To this day, that moment of individual expression brings a tear of joy to my eyes.When I think back to those early days, I often remember a couple named Mr. and Mrs. Rhett Butler (yes, really). We were in a business area of downtown San Antonio that would empty out after five o'clock. Most evenings, we had very few customers, and those few were the ones we got to know best. Rhett and his wife were two of them. I recall my mom and Paco making up dishes just for them. They were more like works of art than dinner. During those times, we also made our homemade sangria (see page 196), and, wow, was it delicious! The laughter of those days still lives in my memory. Today we still have a menu item named after Rhett, Nachos a la Butler (see page 51). I often joke that if the Butlers were ever to get a divorce, we would get custody of the nachos! Right from the start, Rhett was always pulling for our success, and although he lives in Paraguay today, he still sends us customers, to try the nachos named after him.As the restaurant's popularity grew, so did the landlord's interest in our s.p.a.ce-he tripled our rent after the first six months. That, along with Mama's dream to build a bigger restaurant, prompted us to make the move to our current location-4223 Blanco Road.We made the move from downtown San Antonio into an old Dairy Queen on the near north side. It was built in the late 1950s and had a life of its own long before we came along. We've seen pictures of the young boys with their crew cuts, girls looking pretty in their poodle skirts, and, of course, the jukebox by the door. The Dairy Queen days are long gone, but we kept several mementos from that time. The original front-door frame is set in the middle of the dining room now, with the address numbers 4223 shining brightly above it. The brick walls that once held up the huge gla.s.s walls now support terracotta pots with luscious plants, adding life and color throughout the restaurant.Although we were successful in our new s.p.a.ce, we could seat only seventy-five people at one time, and that hardly produces enough revenue to make anybody wealthy. We've expanded three times, and we're now at full capacity with 280 seats. Still, however, the majority of our compensation comes in the form of grat.i.tude from our customers when we are able to make their special occasions a little more special. And that, after all, is what fills up your emotional bank account. Considering the grief we had suffered over the loss of our father, it was just what the doctor ordered. All in all, it was part of the journey, part of the path set before us.[image] FLYING SOLO FLYING SOLOAfter four years in the business, Mama bought out Paco's interest in the restaurant. Paco wanted to be independent, which left Mama flying solo. She was not actually completely alone. You see, G.o.d had sent her a guardian angel, Maria Marquez, a young lady who has been my mother's right-hand person for almost all of her professional life. Together, the two women struggled, taking turns leaning on each other, and cooking all the way through.With more than eight hundred Tex-Mexstyle restaurants in San Antonio, to stand out here is to stand out in the land of the giants. One of the reasons Los Barrios does stand out is its cooking style and preparation. The casero casero style, which is a traditional Mexican home-cooking style, replicates recipes from those of our ancestors. For example, the recipe for Beef Stew Zuazua-Style (see page 90) came directly from Mama's G.o.dmother's kitchen in Zuazua, Nuevo Leon. The dish is composed of beef tenderloin cooked in a stew, with oregano for its strong flavor. Tortillas de Azucar (Sugar Tortillas; see page 11) were prepared in our house on Sunday nights. I still remember the divine aroma that wafted from the kitchen and made its way throughout the house. It reminded us of Mama's motto, "Cooking for a loved one is a recipe for love." This expression is probably the main reason we decided to do a cookbook. It is a way of sharing our family's legacy with our friends. style, which is a traditional Mexican home-cooking style, replicates recipes from those of our ancestors. For example, the recipe for Beef Stew Zuazua-Style (see page 90) came directly from Mama's G.o.dmother's kitchen in Zuazua, Nuevo Leon. The dish is composed of beef tenderloin cooked in a stew, with oregano for its strong flavor. Tortillas de Azucar (Sugar Tortillas; see page 11) were prepared in our house on Sunday nights. I still remember the divine aroma that wafted from the kitchen and made its way throughout the house. It reminded us of Mama's motto, "Cooking for a loved one is a recipe for love." This expression is probably the main reason we decided to do a cookbook. It is a way of sharing our family's legacy with our friends.Over these last twenty years, we have been a strong part of the San Antonio landscape. We have carved out a niche with the support of our many loyal customers and have been helped along the way by our friends in the media and the culinary arts. Through their a.s.sistance, we have had the privilege of helping out many charities and causes. In Spanish, there is the saying Una mano lava la otra y juntas se lavan la cara Una mano lava la otra y juntas se lavan la cara (One hand washes the other and together they wash the face). These acts of giving back to the community have brought us new friends and many good times. (One hand washes the other and together they wash the face). These acts of giving back to the community have brought us new friends and many good times.I've often said that one of the most important things a family can do is to invite someone into their home for dinner. It is a way to share a little of oneself in this busy world. Unfortunately, the restaurant lifestyle does not allow us the freedom to do much of that type of entertaining. However, we are always willing to give of ourselves to both familiar customers and total strangers. In return, our lives resonate with love and grat.i.tude.Growing up in the restaurant business changes the way you view ch.o.r.es and work. We all find ourselves in the middle of so many celebrations-seeing our friends when they are at leisure and having fun-that it really never feels like work. I remember when the singing star Selena came into the restaurant at closing time with her band and her family. We, of course, agreed to stay open late and accommodate the hungry group. The way they acted was so special-they seemed as if they were on vacation together. Their relationships seemed precious, joking and kidding around with everyone, including us. The next day, Selena and her publicist, Robert Trevino, proceeded to play a joke on me by calling twice and saying that Selena had gotten sick from our food. One call came in the middle of our lunch rush, when the place was in its full glory; the second was two hours later. Robert pretended that Selena was unable to perform because of her illness and that Abraham, her father, was boiling mad. The two thoroughly enjoyed listening to me sweat during our conversations. Finally, they let me in on their joke as they laughed uncontrollably, until I, too, joined in. That memory of Selena and our restaurant is one that I will always cherish. It was deja vu when I saw the scene re-created in the 1997 movie about her life.In the restaurant business, things do not always go as planned. You constantly shoot from the hip and hope for the best. The fast-paced nature of the business has a way of always keeping us ready for the unexpected-such as the time "the bankers and the lawyers," as we like to call them, reserved the whole restaurant for after their softball game. After dinner, they were having so much fun that one person slung a tortilla to another as if it were a Frisbee. Before you knew it, a hundred tortillas were flying through the air-it looked as if a Mexican UFO invasion were taking place![image] OUR MISSION OUR MISSIONLos Barrios has become the kind of place where families grow up. We watch as a family of two becomes a family of four, a son becomes a movie director, a daughter becomes a judge. The births, graduations, and other milestones in people's lives that have been celebrated at our restaurant have been a part of our family's life as well.At Los Barrios, our mission is to be a part of your family, large or small. Sooner or later, people come home to visit their roots. An elderly customer was in a nursing home, and when her nurse asked if she wanted anything, she would answer, "A Number 2 and a margarita" (see page 191). Her daughter would say, "Mama, we're not at Los Barrios." "I know that," the woman would retort, "but she keeps asking me what I want, and I want a Number 2 and a margarita." When she pa.s.sed on, her wake was held at Los Barrios, and each member of the family ordered a Number 2 and a margarita.When my mother first set out, she struggled not only to build a business, but also to raise a family. She made many sacrifices, and the decisions she made turned out to be the right ones. Today, she has eight grandchildren ranging from fourteen months to twelve years of age. The older ones help out where they can. They have been known to seat people, make Limonada Fresca (see page 190), roll up the silverware, make tortillas, work the cash register, and even tell a joke or two at a table. It's the family way.My brother, Louie, was given the 1995 Small Business Leader of the Year Award by the Greater San Antonio Chamber of Commerce and was the recipient of the 1996 Restaurateur of the Year Award from the San Antonio Restaurant a.s.sociation. My sister, Teresa, now a prominent podiatrist in San Antonio, also worked alongside us during her summer breaks and whenever school wasn't in session. Los Barrios has also had its share of distinctions. Along with recognition by Esquire Esquire magazine and features in magazine and features in The The New York Times, New York Times, Los Barrios has been ranked one of the "Fifty Best Hispanic Restaurants" by Los Barrios has been ranked one of the "Fifty Best Hispanic Restaurants" by Hispanic Hispanic magazine. magazine.I have been fortunate enough to represent San Antonio and Los Barrios on ABC's Good Morning America Good Morning America with Emeril Laga.s.se and on with Emeril Laga.s.se and on Food Nation with Bobby Flay Food Nation with Bobby Flay on the Food Network. Although these have been very special moments for me and for my family, the following letter, written by a customer, expresses in words the emotions we at Los Barrios would like all of our customers to experience. on the Food Network. Although these have been very special moments for me and for my family, the following letter, written by a customer, expresses in words the emotions we at Los Barrios would like all of our customers to experience.March 10, 1988Dear Mrs. Viola Barrios,Thank you for the fine lunch my friend and I enjoyed at your restaurant and thank you for your positive comments about the story I wrote.I was born and grew up in Fort Worth. My father died when I was nineteen years old, nearly twenty years ago. His love for Mexico was something I will always remember. He made a number of trips to the interior to hunt and fish and visit friends. Because he was sixty-three years old when I was born, I didn't get to go with him on his frequent trips, but we did make it to Monterrey one time. I quickly sensed what was special about that country for him.I moved to Eagle Pa.s.s twelve years ago and my daughter was born there. Although I felt alien to that town, there were times in Piedras when I knew if my father were alive, we would both feel welcome. It is a sadness and loss to me that he was not alive to cross with me and my daughter to Mexico.That feeling of loss disappeared when I moved to San Antonio. The only time I have felt it since was the first time or two I visited Los Barrios. Your restaurant recalled for me all the good things that my father told me about his times in Mexico. Los Barrios just has that "feel," that quality of what is purely Mexicana and what was purely fine in his compadres. compadres.Again, thank you for allowing me to do the story on your restaurant. And thank you for creating a place away from my hometown where I can find bittersweet memories of my father.Sincerely,Deborah HardingFinally, I just want to say that cooking is a learned process: The more you practice, the better you get. It is an expression of your love for someone. Even if it doesn't taste wonderful, it still says "I love you." And there is nothing wrong with that. So I want to invite you to take the dive into your kitchen and start expressing yourself. Who knows, maybe someday that work of art will have been prepared by you!Buen provecho from our family table to yours! from our family table to yours!If you are lucky enough to be in the San Antonio area, we would love for you to stop by the restaurant. Please visit us at:[image]If you can't get to San Antonio to sample our wonderful food, you can still taste the restaurant dishes at home. The recipes in this book that we serve at Los Barrios are indicated by.[image]

[image]STOCKING YOUR KITCHEN

Mexican cooking is very simple and very basic. You can use a lot of the same ingredients and do different things with them. Stock your kitchen with the items listed below, and you'll be able to experience a whole new world of fast and easy cooking.A COMBINATION OF SALT, PEPPER, AND GARLIC POWDER: Keep this in a shaker and use it to season everything; use twice as much salt as pepper and garlic powder. My mother gave me this tip the day I married. Keep this in a shaker and use it to season everything; use twice as much salt as pepper and garlic powder. My mother gave me this tip the day I married.TOMATOES, ONIONS, GARLIC, AND BELL PEPPERS: We use these in many recipes. We use these in many recipes.SERRANO, JALAPEnO, AND ANCHO CHILES: CHILES: We keep We keep chiles chiles with all degrees of heat on hand to satisfy everyone's palate, or mood! with all degrees of heat on hand to satisfy everyone's palate, or mood!CORN AND FLOUR TORTILLAS: These are essential. We eat these with everything (and on their own, with nothing else). These are essential. We eat these with everything (and on their own, with nothing else).FLOUR, CORN MASA MASA MIX, SALT, AND SHORTENING: MIX, SALT, AND SHORTENING: You never know when you'll want to make fresh flour or corn tortillas. You never know when you'll want to make fresh flour or corn tortillas.AVOCADOS: My cousin calls these Mexican b.u.t.ter. The pebbly-skinned dark Ha.s.s avocados are our favorite. My cousin calls these Mexican b.u.t.ter. The pebbly-skinned dark Ha.s.s avocados are our favorite.FRYER CHICKENS: Keep one in the freezer for emergencies. You'll find many recipes you can prepare with them that will knock your family's socks off. Keep one in the freezer for emergencies. You'll find many recipes you can prepare with them that will knock your family's socks off.QUESO CHIHUAHUA AND MONTEREY JACK: AND MONTEREY JACK: These can be used interchangeably in all of our recipes. These can be used interchangeably in all of our recipes.

ENCHILADA GRAVY SAUCEMakes 3 quarts - 1 cup vegetable oil - 2 cups all-purpose flour - cup chili powder - 1 tablespoon ground c.u.min - 1 tablespoon garlic powder - 1 tablespoons salt - teaspoon pepper - 2 quarts water 1. Heat the oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour is browned (this mixture is called a roux); be careful not to let the flour burn. Stir in the chili powder, c.u.min, garlic powder, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Gradually add the water, stirring until smooth. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat and boil gently for 15 minutes.

HOMEMADE CORN TORTILLAS[image]orn and flour tortillas (see page 6) are a staple in our home. They are eaten with every meal and used in many different recipes. The tortilla is to San Antonio as the bagel is to New York. It is the third utensil: the knife, the fork, and the tortilla! Serve these with b.u.t.ter, and use them to mop up the flavorful sauces on your plate.

Makes eight 4-inch tortillas - 2 cups corn masa mix (see Note) - 1 cups warm water 1. Combine the masa masa mix and warm water in a medium bowl, mixing until a soft dough forms. You can use a wooden spoon for mixing, but you will have better results if you use your hands. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead until it is smooth. If the dough seems dry, add more water, a tablespoon at a time, as necessary. mix and warm water in a medium bowl, mixing until a soft dough forms. You can use a wooden spoon for mixing, but you will have better results if you use your hands. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead until it is smooth. If the dough seems dry, add more water, a tablespoon at a time, as necessary.

2. To form the tortillas, one at a time, pinch off small handfuls (about 3 tablespoons) of the dough and roll each one between the palms of your hands into a ball. Cover the dough b.a.l.l.s with a damp cloth as you form them, to keep them from drying out.

3. Cut a quart-size resealable plastic bag open down both sides, to form a rectangle. Use the bag to line a tortilla press as you shape the tortillas, so they do not stick: Lay one side of the plastic over the bottom of the press, place a ball of dough in the center, and fold the other side of the plastic over the dough. Shut the top of the tortilla press firmly down on the dough to shape the tortilla. (See Note.) 4. Heat a griddle until hot. Place a tortilla on the griddle and cook for 1 minutes. Using a spatula, flip it over and continue to cook, flipping it occasionally, until both sides are covered with small brown spots. Transfer to a plate and cover with a kitchen towel to keep warm while you cook the remaining tortillas, stacking the finished tortillas on the plate. Serve immediately.

NOTE:.

If you can't get your hands on a tortilla press, a clean countertop will do. You will still need the plastic so that the dough does not stick to the counter. Place a dough ball on one side of the plastic, cover with the other side, and use a heavy skillet to press out the tortilla.

Masa mix can be found at Latin markets and some larger supermarkets. mix can be found at Latin markets and some larger supermarkets.

HOMEMADE FLOUR TORTILLAS[image]aking tortillas from scratch can be a lot of fun, but it can also be a little frustrating. My eleven-year-old son, Jordan, rolls his tortillas out into perfect circles, but mine end up looking like the state of Texas! Don't give up if they don't come out right on the first try. Once you get the hang of them, everyone will be asking for more. These will keep, well wrapped, for up to 1 week in the refrigerator and up to 2 months in the freezer.

Makes sixteen 6-inch tortillas - 2 cups all-purpose flour - 1 teaspoon salt - teaspoon baking powder - cup vegetable shortening - cup hot water, or as necessary 1. Combine the flour, salt, and baking powder in a large bowl. Add the shortening and hot water, mixing until a soft dough forms.

2. Divide the dough into 16 pieces and shape each into a ball (these are called testales testales). On a floured surface, using a floured rolling pin, roll out each ball to a 6-inch circle.

3. Heat a griddle until hot. Place a tortilla on the griddle and cook until the bottom is lightly browned in spots, 1 to 2 minutes; the tortilla will puff up. Turn and cook until lightly browned in spots on the second side. Place in a towel-lined basket and cover with the towel to keep warm while you cook the remaining tortillas. Serve immediately.

VARIATION:.

For extra flavor and crunch, add 1 cup finely chopped pecans to the dough, mixing thoroughly.

LOS BARRIOS SALSA[image]his salsa is great with Tortilla Chips (see page 12). The only problem is that it quickly becomes habit-forming-you just can't stop eating it. We serve a bowl of this salsa and a basket of warm tortilla chips to every table in our restaurant, and people always ask for more. I have even seen customers eating it with a spoon, like soup. It goes with everything, from breakfast to dinner, and it accompanies every meal at Los Barrios. It will keep for up to 4 days in the refrigerator and can be frozen for up to 2 months.

Makes 4 cups - One 16-ounce can whole tomatoes - One 4-ounce can jalapeno chiles - 1 teaspoon garlic powder - teaspoon salt - teaspoon pepper Combine the tomatoes, chiles, chiles, garlic powder, salt, and pepper in a blender and blend to a chunky puree; do not blend until smooth. Transfer to a serving bowl. garlic powder, salt, and pepper in a blender and blend to a chunky puree; do not blend until smooth. Transfer to a serving bowl.

VARIATION:.

You can make this hotter by increasing the amount of chiles. chiles.

MAKE-ME-CRAZY GRILL MARINADE.

[image]his is a great marinade for chicken fajitas, fish, or shrimp. I seal everything in a Ziploc bag, place it in the refrigerator, and marinate for 2 to 4 hours, to ensure that the flavor soaks in. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes to 1 hour before grilling.

Makes cups - cup lime juice - cup lemon juice - cup orange juice - 1 tablespoons minced garlic - 1 teaspoon dried oregano - teaspoon ground c.u.min - 1 bay leaf - Salt and pepper to taste - cup Los Barrios Salsa (see page 7) or your favorite store-bought brand - 2 tablespoons olive oil Combine all the ingredients in a blender and blend well.

PICO DE GALLO[image]erve this on the side with chicken or beef fajitas or as a dip for Tortilla Chips (see page 12). We have some customers who like to combine pico de gallo pico de gallo with our delicious Chile con Queso (see page 40) or add it to Charro-Style Beans (see page 151) for extra flavor. with our delicious Chile con Queso (see page 40) or add it to Charro-Style Beans (see page 151) for extra flavor.

Makes 3 cups - 3 ripe tomatoes, diced - 1 onion, diced - 2 to 4 serrano chiles (to taste), thinly sliced - cup chopped cilantro - Juice of 1 lime - Salt and pepper to taste Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well.

VARIATION:.

Add cup finely diced mango and cup chopped jicama for a little flair.

SALSA RANCHERA[image]his salsa keeps well in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Reheat gently before serving.

Makes 6 cups - 6 tomatoes - 4 cups water - 5 serrano chiles, cut into thin strips - onion, quartered and thinly sliced - cup vegetable oil - teaspoon garlic powder - teaspoon salt - teaspoon pepper 1. Put the tomatoes in a large saucepan, add the water, and bring to a boil. Cook until the skins start to split, 10 to 12 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the tomatoes from the water; set the pan aside.

2. Peel the tomatoes and return them to the pan of water. Using a potato masher, thoroughly mash the tomatoes, blending them with the water. Add the chiles, chiles, onion, and oil and bring to a simmer over low heat. Simmer for 20 minutes, or until slightly thickened. Season with the garlic powder, salt, and pepper, and serve hot. onion, and oil and bring to a simmer over low heat. Simmer for 20 minutes, or until slightly thickened. Season with the garlic powder, salt, and pepper, and serve hot.

SUGAR TORTILLAS.

Tortillas de Azucar [image]s I mentioned in the Introduction, this recipe is nearest and dearest to my family's heart. It was as much of a treat for my sister, brother, and me when we were growing up as it is for our children now. My son Evan loves to ask my mom for tortillas "choquitas." What he means is tortillas "choquitas." What he means is tortillas chiquitas, tortillas chiquitas, little tortillas. Try these, and begin making your own memories. little tortillas. Try these, and begin making your own memories.

Makes twenty-four 3-inch tortillas - 4 cups all-purpose flour - 1 cup sugar - 1 teaspoon baking soda - 1 cup vegetable shortening - 2 eggs - cup milk 1. Combine the flour, sugar, and baking soda in a large bowl. Add the shortening, blending well. Beat the eggs and milk together in a small bowl, then add to the shortening mixture, mixing well.

2. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. With floured hands, divide the dough into 24 pieces and roll into b.a.l.l.s about the size of a golf ball. Using a floured rolling pin, roll each ball out into a round about 3 inches wide and inch thick.

3. Heat a griddle until hot. Place 2 or 3 tortillas on the griddle and cook until the bottoms are lightly browned in spots, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn and cook until lightly browned in spots on the second side. Place in a towel-lined basket and cover with the towel to keep warm while you cook the remaining tortillas. Serve immediately, with b.u.t.ter.

TORTILLA CHIPS[image]tore these in an airtight container. If they start to taste stale, reheat them on a cookie sheet in a preheated 350F oven for 1 to 2 minutes. Watch carefully, since they can burn easily.

Makes about 11 dozen chips - 2 cups vegetable oil - 32 corn tortillas, homemade (see page 4) or store-bought, cut into quarters - Salt to taste 1. Heat the oil in a deep heavy pot over medium-high heat until hot. Working in small batches, carefully drop the tortillas into the hot oil; be careful not to crowd the pot. Cook until crisp, 3 to 5 minutes (to check, remove a chip from the oil with a slotted spoon, let cool slightly, and taste it; if it is still a little chewy, the chips need to cook slightly longer).

2. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain briefly, then season lightly with salt.

VARIATION:.

As an alternative to the deep-fried chips, steam quartered corn tortillas until hot and serve them with salsa or dip.

WARM MILD TOMATO SAUCESalsa Dulce de Tomate [image]ot everyone can handle the super-hot, spicy salsas available in the market today. Well, not to worry. This one's nice and mild.

Makes 1 to 2 cups - 4 tomatoes, quartered - cup vegetable oil - 1 onion, thinly sliced - green bell pepper, thinly sliced - teaspoon garlic powder - teaspoon ground c.u.min - teaspoon salt - teaspoon pepper 1. Put the tomatoes in a blender and blend until pureed. Set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook until soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the pureed tomatoes, garlic powder, c.u.min, salt, and pepper and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 45 minutes. Serve warm.

NOTE:.

If the tomatoes aren't very red, you can add a little canned tomato sauce to the pan.

BREAKFAST CHILAQUILES[image]f you are going to cheat on a diet, this is the plate for you. The tostadas (tortilla chips) give these the Frito pie (corn chips in chili) crunchy effect. But remember, just don't cheat too often!

Serves 1 or 2 - 2 tablespoons vegetable oil - cup diced onion - cup crushed tortilla chips (no smaller than inch in size), homemade (see page 12) or store-bought - 2 eggs, beaten - cup shredded American or Velveeta cheese - cup Salsa Ranchera (see page 10) or prepared tomato sauce 1. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and tortilla chips and cook, stirring, until the onion is softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs and scramble them with the onion and tortilla chips, 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Transfer the eggs to a plate (or plates) and top with the cheese and sauce.

HEARTY FRUIT-AND-NUT OATMEAL.

[image]eed a great breakfast to get you through a crazy day? Try this oatmeal, and get ready to conquer the world!

Serves 2 - Two 1.5-ounce packages instant oatmeal - 1 cup milk - 1 banana, sliced - cup dried cranberries - cup granola - cup chopped pecans or walnuts 1. Prepare the oatmeal according to package directions, subst.i.tuting the milk for water.

2. Divide the banana, cranberries, granola, and pecans between 2 cereal bowls. Spoon the oatmeal over the fruit and nuts.

MAMA'S BREAKFAST.

[image]hen my family and I had to move in with my mother because our house sold so quickly, she spoiled us by making this breakfast almost every day. It was really hard to leave her house, not only because we knew we would miss her, but also because we would miss this great breakfast. (If you want to serve more than two, make the breakfast in individual batches rather than doubling or tripling the recipe.) What a great way to start the day. Happy Breakfast!

Serves 1 or 2 - 2 tablespoons vegetable oil - 2 tablespoons chopped onion - to 1 serrano chile (to taste), finely chopped - 2 tomatoes, halved and grated on the large holes of a box grater - 2 eggs, beaten - Salt to taste 1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and chile chile and cook until the onion is softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes (if the mixture looks dry, stir in a bit of water). Remove from the heat. and cook until the onion is softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes (if the mixture looks dry, stir in a bit of water). Remove from the heat.

2. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the eggs and scramble them for just 2 minutes; they should still be runny. Stir in the tomato mixture and season with salt.

MEXICAN SAUSAGE AND EGGSChorizo con Huevos Serves 4 - pound chorizo (Mexican sausage), casings removed - 4 eggs, beaten - Salt to taste - 8 flour tortillas, homemade (see page 6) or store-bought 1. Saute the sausage in a large skillet for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the fat from the pan, add the eggs, and season with salt. Scramble the eggs with the sausage, 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Spoon the sausage mixture onto one side of each tortilla, dividing it evenly. Fold the tortillas over, and place 2 on each plate.

MEXICAN-STYLE EGGSHuevos a la Mexicana [image]y father loved breakfast. When my mother made him this dish, he would moan with delight as he ate it. She would always ask him not to make so much noise, but his heart could not contain itself.

Serves 6 - 1 tablespoon vegetable oil - cup diced onion - 3 to 4 serrano chiles (to taste), thinly sliced - 2 tomatoes, diced - 12 eggs, beaten 1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and chiles chiles and saute until the onions are softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. and saute until the onions are softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for 3 to 4 minutes.

2. Add the eggs and scramble them with the other ingredients; do not overcook the eggs-they should still be a bit loose.

NATURE'S BREAKFAST.

Serves 6 - 1 cup strawberries, washed, hulled, and quartered - 2 bananas, cut into -inch slices -inch slices - cup dried cranberries - 2 cups uncooked old-fashioned or quick-cooking oatmeal - 1 cup granola - 3 cups plain or flavored yogurt - cup chopped pecans - 2 tablespoons honey 1. Layer the fruit in the bottom of 6 cereal bowls, dividing it evenly. Sprinkle the oatmeal and the granola over the fruit.

2. Top with the yogurt, and then the pecans and honey.

POTATO AND EGG TACOSTacos de Papa con Huevos Makes 8 tacos - cup vegetable oil - 1 potato, peeled and cut into -inch dice -inch dice - 6 eggs, beaten - Salt and pepper to taste - 8 flour tortillas, homemade (see page 6) or store-bought, warmed 1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the potato and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 5 minutes.

2. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the pan and add the eggs. Season with salt and pepper and scramble the eggs for 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Scoop the eggs onto one side of each tortilla, dividing them evenly. Fold over, and enjoy.

POTATO TACOS WITH ANCHO CHILE SAUCE.

Tacos de Papa con Chile Colorado [image]hese tacos are so good that you just keep on eating them, not realizing how many you've had! They are great to make when you have a cup or two of leftover mashed potatoes. My mother taught us never to throw anything away-you can always prepare something with leftovers.

Makes 8 tacos - 2 potatoes, peeled and quartered - teaspoon salt, plus more to taste - cup evaporated milk - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, at room temperature White pepper to taste - 1 ancho chile - cup water - 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus more for frying - 8 corn tortillas, homemade (see page 4) or store-bought 1. Put the potatoes in a large pot and add water to cover by 2 to 3 inches. Add the teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

2. Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot. Add the evaporated milk and the b.u.t.ter, and season with salt and white pepper. Using a handheld mixer, beat until light and fluffy. Set aside.

3. Cut the chile chile in half and remove and discard the seeds and stem. Put the in half and remove and discard the seeds and stem. Put the chile chile in a small saucepan, add water to cover by 2 inches, and bring to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes; drain and let cool. Remove the loosened skin from the in a small saucepan, add water to cover by 2 inches, and bring to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes; drain and let cool. Remove the loosened skin from the chile, chile, and put the halves in a blender. Add the cup water, season with salt, and blend for 30 seconds to a puree. and put the halves in a blender. Add the cup water, season with salt, and blend for 30 seconds to a puree.

4. Heat the 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chile chile puree, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. puree, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

5. Pour 1 inch of oil into a large deep skillet and heat over medium-high heat until very hot. Using tongs, dip the tortillas one at a time in the hot oil for 5 to 10 seconds. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

6. Spread some chile chile puree over the tortillas. Spoon some potato mixture to one side of each tortilla, dividing it evenly among all of them, then fold the other half of the tortilla over the potato mixture. Brush the remaining puree over the outsides of the tortillas. puree over the tortillas. Spoon some potato mixture to one side of each tortilla, dividing it evenly among all of them, then fold the other half of the tortilla over the potato mixture. Brush the remaining puree over the outsides of the tortillas.